A few scenes from Colombia…

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Posted by admin | Posted in Colombia, South America, Travel | Posted on 31-01-2007

“La mano de Dios” = “The hand of god”.
I just had to have a pic of an Englishman stood next to that…even if it wasn’t in Argentina.

We went to a town called Mompos, which involved some of the most effort to get there of any town so far. Of course buses, then pick up truck, a boat ride upriver (they boat’s engine messed up after 15 mins so we took another 45mins instead of 10 or so), then the most intense motorbike ride yet over a dusty road – the type you’d look for to mountain bike.

The town was full of cool old architecture and worth the visit.

The pic below is another real nice village in a different region. We camped in a cool site; a small field shared with big white rabbits and a sheep.


Above is a scene from that village’s main square.

Paragliding was awesome fun. Starting up a hill overlooking farm fields, beyond them a big canyon and on the horizon were a few small table top mountains.

Once set to go I looked down and saw a group of vultures circling way below me but still high above the valley. We were waiting for the right thermals to set off. Then suddenly the vultures caught one and soared way way above us. A few seconds later and I was gliding above everthing!

The photo to the left was snapped up on the Colombian coast in tropical forest. We walked down a stream as the quickest and easiest way to get back to the beach (the path meandered loads).

I’m about to jump a log with a cool line of leaf cutter ants running along it.

That day on a walk to a pre-hispanic settlement up the mountain, I came face-to-face with a snake. Climbing up the boulders I was leaning forward because of the steepness and looking up it was right in front of my nose – luckily just as scared of me as it had started to crawl off…

We also saw bats in daylight, great big bright green iguanas, various coloured crabs and lizards, squirrels and a big rodent called an Agouti as well as the acient settlement hidden among the forest.

That was all a while ago now. We’ve now been in Venezuela about 3 weeks or so – a country full of fantastic countryside but people who are “generally” a bit daft and/or annoying.

Villa de Leyva, Colombia

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Posted by admin | Posted in Colombia, South America, Travel | Posted on 15-01-2007


The pic below is another real nice village in a different region. Camped in a cool site

Las Islas Galapagos – wow!

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Posted by admin | Posted in Birds, Ecuador, Galapagos, Isla Isabella, South America, Travel, Wildlife | Posted on 30-12-2006

The time we spent in the Galapagos was just fantastic.


We did some big day trips on different types of boats, numerous day trips on land by walking or biking and saw such an amazing variation in countryside – for example wild cliffed islands, paradise style beaches, lava flow areas with cacti forests – constantly changing vegetation and of course the most awesome wildlife you could imagine.


The marine life was definitely a major highlight since we saw things I’d wanted to see all my life but some I never thought I would. Pods of dolphins diving in and out of the sea passing our boat, a group of killer whales also diving in and out later that day or the ocasional sea turtle – I even swam about with one – but more often seen when coming up for air. One night we were sat at the bay of the most populated town in the islands and I thought I saw something in the water with the streetlamp light; a few seconds later a turtle popped up right in front of us for a gulp of air and dived back under!

That’s the way it was pretty much. There’s life everywhere, of course far more in the less accesible parts but even right on the edges of populated places.

Without a doubt our favourite island was Isabela, the largest, even thought we only saw a relatively tiny fraction of it. From the port village walking along the beach we found the most idyllic individual beaches I’ve seen; and some less than an about 40mins walk. What adds superbly to these quality, secluded beaches is the life. You’re usually only sharing it with big marine iguanas, some sealions, bright crabs and, with luck, penguins or rays! On the main beach I watched a group of at least 20 penguins hunting in front of me whilst I was chest deep in the water. Until then we had never seen groups of more than 8 or so! Plus the birds and sealions would get in on the act and take easy pickings among the feast. It was natural events like that that made it such an awesome experience.
I think what surprised me most, and ended up being my favourite animals to see, were the rays. On the first boat trip we watched the ‘wings’ of huge Manta Rays flipping about on the sea surface, then soon after we watched them leaping well out of the water and belly flopping or sometimes flipping and back flopping on the surface. Then one passed right by the boat at the surface and i saw its shocking size and beauty as it drifted by. After that we saw rays loads in various situations – often the big mantas jumping and flipping whilst we chilled on the beach. Occasionally, however, we saw beautiful Spotted Eagle Rays swim close to shore and a few times we swam with them including a time when we were snorkelling with loads of Galapagos sharks and Reef Sharks on a day trip and a group of 5 Eagle Rays came along and drifted around proper peaceful. So cool to watch them ‘flying’ through the water. Then there were the smaller sting rays we’d see hiding in the sand in the shallows which were cool to snorkel with and once we saw a school of Golden Rays off a boat – a stunning sight.


Getting between the major islands we took what was probably the worst boat ride experience of my life – thank f*ck it was only 2 and a half hours – and after that dodgy journey we decided on a flight to skip 2 more similar boat trips. The plane was a cool 8 seater with 6 people. I jumped at the chance to ride up in the co-pilot seat like the little child that I am. It was coooool!

As you can probably tell, this was all ideal for me. An amazing trip and still sooooo much more I could say.

Oh well, hopefully the snapfish pics will say more than a thousand waffled words….

La Huaca de la Luna

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Posted by admin | Posted in Peru, South America, Travel | Posted on 23-09-2006

Viajando durante los ultimos 6 meses he conocido bastantes mochileros de los paises latinamericanos y por eso decidi que, de vez en cuando, voy a escribir en castellano – para se puede buscar informacion y, quizas, encontrar lo que se busca aca en este Blog.

Para empezar tengo que recomendar la “Huaca del la Luna” cerca de Trujillo en el norte de Peru. Todavia estan descubriendo cosas nuevas y, como un turista, se puede recorrer por el sitio y ver los muros impresionantes de la pyramide pero los mas increibles son las grandes pinturas – que existen como pescadores, aranas, guerreros y disenos de dioses distintos. Tambien, enfrente esta la otra mucha mas grande Huaca (del Sol), pero actualmente esa es para mirar no mas. El guia fue bien informativo y ademas el ingreso economico. Muy bien recomendable – descubrela!

Lo siento mucho que los accentos (que incluye la tilda) sobre las letras no funccionaron.

Classic Bent South American Filth

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Posted by admin | Posted in Drinking, Peru, Police, South America, Travel | Posted on 23-09-2006

As well as visiting some of the coolest sites I’ve ever seen recently, we also went out the other friday night as most other nights – restaurant, local licors – and ended up in a cool club with a circular balcony looking over the dancefloor. Chatted with a few randoms (you always get approached by curious locals in the more remote towns with few gringos) including a big group of coppers out on a bender for their captain’s birthday! They were sound enough even though whilst drinking with them one was quite keen to offer us any type of ancient artefact you could think of. His pride and joy was a pure gold necklace of Inca origin that he “got” (assume confiscated) off a grave robber, which work all over the country especially in the areas we’ve been recently.

We didn’t show too much interest and managed to move onto the next subject everytime – not wanting a free long-term tour of a south american prison – but classic that they probably have hordes of this stuff tucked away earning them a decent 2nd wage.

As I said, these filth were actually sound and real friendly and the other 7 or so guys were just having a laugh and not on a sales pitch. Twas a good night but agony early the next morning when we had a 3 1/2 hour drive up winding mountain rough dirt track roads…

The Big One – Boca Vs River

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Posted by admin | Posted in Argentina, Boca Juniors, Buenos Aires, Football, River Plate, South America | Posted on 26-03-2006

Boca Juniors Vs River Plate

Sunday 26th March 2006.

Well, this match turned out to better than I could have imagined. The whole spectacle was just about unbelievable.

I’ll start with the only slight downer which was the price. There were no tickets available except to members, so I ended up going through a kind of local tour operator called ‘The Godfather’ and soon found out why they chose that name!

They put on a cool bus with a driver who was continuously beeping the horn to random tunes on the way down to the cancha (stadium). I assumed he was into the footy after the game he asked us who was playing!

On the way I had chatted to the organiser dude (I can’t remember his name so I’ll call him Che – everyone calls everyone Che here, it’s like us saying ‘Hey’) who turned out to be a River fan and kindly let me know that we were in the River supporters away end! The German bunch of guys I the group only found out this after we stepped out of the bus and one of them went to put his new Boca cap on! Che looked like he had sh!t himself and jumped at the guy to get him to hide it down his pants!

Oh, and here comes a truth many of you won’t like; I am (now) a River supporter.

The Boca neighbourhood looked like a war zone, with loads of streets cordoned off making only one zigzagging route to the cancha. Each barrier had a row of policemen and every so often we had to go through a security check where a line of police in a different uniform padded us down. There were seven of these checks in total and the German guy lost his hat at the second! Che was sweating and looking terrified leading a group of gringos through Boca. Around one corner we were confronted with a tank with two water cannon turrets on top. At the penultimate corner a row of proper hardcore riot police were waiting; but at least Che managed to crack one joke by saying ‘I’ll give you 500 pesos if you go up to that lot and tell them their mothers are all putas!’.

And I can confirm that the Argentinian police have bigger truncheons than the English. Sorry Steve.

When we got into the stadium at about 1:20 a warm up match was playing between the reserve teams of both clubs. Che said that the best views are towards the top so I left then group and nudged my way as far up as I could. The reserves were pretty good and Boca ended up winning 4-2. The River fans constantly came out with new songs and were almost as vocal and passionate during the warm up alone as any fans I’ve seen and heard.

The stand was pretty full already and as I did’t want to lose my place I ended up standing in pretty much exactly the same spot for almost 5 hours – the stand was terraced – and kick off was not until 4:10pm! It was a hot day and the sun was beating down since there was no shade in the away end. I survived on 1 ice lolly but also, luckily, because of clouds that passed over every now and then.

Quick description of the cancha then the main event. I was on the top (3rd) tier in an all open stadium behind the goal at the opposite end to the crazy Boca stand. The stand was really steep and there were hardly any bars at all so when the crowd moved, you just moved with it.

‘El clasico’ is what they call this match. Before kick off the whole pitch was swarming with people; photographers, who were bunched over one area to the side (reading the paper the next day it turned they were taking pics of Maradona who is the Boca director of football), officials, dancers, I don’t know what most were doing.

The River players came out to warm and were running among all these people. When warming up the keeper with shots, the full back had to dodge around a photographer who was sat on a stool just outside the box. It was all pretty hectic. During this time the Boca fans had been singing one song, led by their full band, constantly for about half hour!

It all really hit me when the Boca players came out. Suddenly you couldn’t see the opposite end for bog rolls floating through the air from the top stand, blue and yellow confetti coming from all over and manic noise from the fans! I couldn’t believe how long all this went on for either! When some cleaners had finished clearing the bog roll of the pitch (which took a while as every time they finished another would rain down into the goal mouth) and when the guys had shifted the confetti with leave blower machines, I looked around and every single seat was filled.

Just before kick off a gigantic banner rolled down out of nowhere over 2/3 of the middle Boca stand and swayed from the fans pulling it about. Then another appeared with some text about River. That was really cool to see.

The game finally got going and was absolutely great to watch. The Argentinian matches tend to be really open, partly due to the skill of the players, any of whom can take it past a player, but also due to a lack of defensive organisation.

It had everything, a good goal before half time for River, an equaliser on 89 minutes for Boca via a penalty that came from a silky solo run, 3 red cards – 2 for Boca which were disgusting desperate challenges when the attacker was 1 on 1 with the keeper and then a defender and 1 for River which didn’t look like a foul at all. I know that sounds biased but even the Boca based newspaper agreed the next day. Oh, and both goals were at my end – sweet!

The best moment for me was when River scored. The crowd went nuts. The passion was more extreme than I realised. I ended up drifting with the crowd about 5 metres forward and then to the side and finished pretty much where I started.

The reaction of the crowd after the Boca goal was incredible, every single person bouncing up and down.

I learned a few more Spanish words that day but I think most wouldn’t be repeatable anywhere but a football match (especially “El Superclasico”).  I honestly think I heard the words puta / puto (b!tch or wh0re) several hundred times at least.

The whole thing was fantastic. They are unbelievably passionate about football and the fans have complete and utter hatred for each other. I can honestly believe that many would kill for their club! I kept my mouth shut a lot and either sang the 2 songs I thought I understood or mimed others – I survived it.

“Vamo Riiiiver Plate!”

Although all photos have, so far, been taken by me; I was advised not to take my camera (or anything of value!) to this match and so the pictures in this entry have been randomly borrowed and are not necessarily from this particular game.